Bicol Express

Bicol Express is a fiery pork and shrimp paste stew born in the Bicol region of the Philippines, where an abundance of chili peppers and coconut milk define the local palate. Named after a passenger train that once ran from Manila to Bicol, this dish embodies the bold, unapologetic heat that the Bicolano people are famous for.

Ingredients

700g pork belly, cut into 1-inch cubes

2 cups fresh long green chilies (siling haba), sliced diagonally

6 pieces fresh red bird's eye chilies (siling labuyo), thinly sliced

2 cups coconut milk

1 cup coconut cream

3 tablespoons bagoong alamang (fermented shrimp paste)

1 medium white onion, finely diced

6 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon fresh ginger, minced

2 tablespoons neutral cooking oil

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

Instructions

Prepare all ingredients before cooking: cube the pork belly, slice both varieties of chilies, and mince the garlic, onion, and ginger. Set aside each component separately.

Heat the cooking oil in a large wok or heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat. Add the pork belly cubes in a single layer and sear for 4 to 5 minutes, turning occasionally, until lightly browned on the outside. Do not fully cook through at this stage.

Push the pork to one side of the pan and add the garlic, onion, and ginger to the empty space. Sauté for 2 minutes until the onion is translucent and the garlic is fragrant, then stir everything together.

Add the bagoong alamang to the pan and stir it into the pork and aromatics. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly, allowing the shrimp paste to bloom and coat the pork evenly.

Pour in the coconut milk and stir to combine. Bring the mixture to a gentle boil over medium-high heat, then reduce heat to medium and simmer uncovered for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the coconut milk reduces by about half and the pork is tender.

Add the sliced long green chilies and all of the bird's eye chilies to the pan. Stir to incorporate them into the stew.

Pour in the coconut cream and stir well. Continue to simmer over medium heat for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent the coconut cream from scorching, until the sauce thickens to a rich, glossy consistency that coats the pork.

Taste the stew and season with salt and black pepper as needed, keeping in mind the saltiness of the bagoong. The finished dish should be intensely spicy, savory, and slightly sweet from the coconut cream.

Remove from heat and transfer to a serving dish. Serve immediately with steamed white rice to balance the heat.