Gai Yang (Isaan Grilled Chicken)

Gai Yang originates from the Isaan region of northeastern Thailand, where it is sold by roadside vendors and eaten as everyday street food alongside sticky rice and papaya salad. The marinade relies on lemongrass, galangal, and fish sauce to build deep, savory flavor that caramelizes over charcoal into a smoky, lacquered crust.

Ingredients

1 whole chicken (about 3.5 lbs), spatchcocked or cut into quarters

6 cloves garlic, roughly chopped

3 stalks lemongrass, tender inner parts only, thinly sliced

1-inch piece fresh galangal, peeled and roughly chopped

1-inch piece fresh turmeric, peeled and roughly chopped (or 1 tsp ground turmeric)

4 cilantro roots with 2 inches of stem, roughly chopped

2 tbsp oyster sauce

3 tbsp fish sauce

2 tbsp soy sauce (gluten-free tamari if needed)

2 tbsp palm sugar or light brown sugar

1 tsp white pepper, freshly ground

1 tsp black pepper, freshly ground

3 tbsp coconut milk

1 tbsp vegetable oil

4 tbsp fish sauce (for dipping sauce)

3 tbsp fresh lime juice (for dipping sauce)

2 tbsp palm sugar or light brown sugar (for dipping sauce)

2 tsp toasted rice powder (for dipping sauce)

1 tsp dried chili flakes (for dipping sauce)

2 tbsp fresh cilantro leaves, chopped (for dipping sauce)

2 shallots, thinly sliced (for dipping sauce)

Instructions

Make the toasted rice powder by dry-toasting 2 tablespoons of raw jasmine rice in a small skillet over medium heat for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring constantly, until deep golden brown and fragrant. Transfer to a mortar and pestle or spice grinder and grind to a coarse powder. Set aside.

In a blender or food processor, combine the garlic, lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, and cilantro roots. Add 2 tablespoons of water and blend into a rough paste, scraping down the sides as needed.

Transfer the paste to a large mixing bowl. Add the oyster sauce, fish sauce, soy sauce, palm sugar, white pepper, black pepper, coconut milk, and vegetable oil. Stir well until the sugar is dissolved and everything is fully combined.

Pat the chicken pieces completely dry with paper towels. Add the chicken to the marinade and use your hands to rub it thoroughly into every surface, including under the skin wherever possible. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.

Prepare a two-zone charcoal grill: pile the coals on one side for direct high heat and leave the other side empty for indirect heat. If using a gas grill, heat one side to high and leave the other side off. Allow the grill to reach 375 to 400°F before cooking.

Remove the chicken from the refrigerator 30 minutes before grilling to take the chill off. Shake off any excess marinade but do not wipe it clean.

Place the chicken skin-side up on the indirect heat side of the grill. Cover and cook for 25 minutes, flipping once halfway through, until the chicken is mostly cooked through and beginning to color.

Move the chicken to the direct heat side, skin-side down first. Grill uncovered for 4 to 5 minutes per side, watching carefully for flare-ups, until the skin is deeply caramelized and charred in spots and the internal temperature at the thickest part of the thigh reads 165°F.

While the chicken rests, make the Isaan dipping sauce: whisk together 4 tablespoons fish sauce, 3 tablespoons lime juice, and 2 tablespoons palm sugar in a small bowl until the sugar dissolves. Stir in the toasted rice powder, dried chili flakes, cilantro, and sliced shallots. Taste and adjust lime juice or sugar as needed.

Rest the chicken on a cutting board for 10 minutes before cutting into serving pieces. Arrange on a platter and serve immediately with the dipping sauce, steamed sticky rice, and fresh vegetables on the side.