Gnocchi al Pomodoro

Born in the kitchens of northern Italy, particularly the Veneto and Friuli regions where potatoes became a staple after the 18th century, these pillowy dumplings represent the cucina povera tradition at its most satisfying. Smothered in a slow-simmered San Marzano tomato sauce and finished with fresh basil, this dish transforms humble ingredients into something deeply comforting and unmistakably Italian.

Ingredients

1 kg (about 2.2 lbs) starchy potatoes, such as Russet or Yukon Gold

250 g (2 cups) all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

1 pinch freshly grated nutmeg

800 g (28 oz) whole San Marzano canned tomatoes

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

1 small yellow onion, finely diced

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

1 teaspoon fine sea salt, for sauce

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

10 large fresh basil leaves, plus more for garnish

60 g (2 oz) Parmigiano-Reggiano, freshly grated, for serving

Instructions

Place the whole, unpeeled potatoes in a large pot of cold salted water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a steady simmer and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, until a knife slides through the center with no resistance. Drain immediately.

While the potatoes are still hot, peel them carefully using a kitchen towel to protect your hands. Pass them through a potato ricer or food mill onto a clean, lightly floured work surface. Spread them out and allow the steam to escape for 5 minutes — this step is critical for removing excess moisture and preventing dense gnocchi.

Make a well in the center of the riced potatoes. Add the beaten egg, 1 teaspoon of salt, and the pinch of nutmeg. Scatter 200 g (1.6 cups) of the flour over the top, reserving the remaining 50 g for adjustments.

Using a bench scraper or your hands, gently bring the dough together, folding and pressing until it just comes together into a smooth, soft dough. Do not knead — overworking develops gluten and makes gnocchi tough. Add more flour one tablespoon at a time only if the dough is sticky and unmanageable. The dough should be soft, slightly tacky, and hold its shape.

Divide the dough into 8 equal portions. On a lightly floured surface, roll each portion into a rope about 1.5 cm (0.6 inches) in diameter. Cut each rope into 2 cm (0.8 inch) pieces. Roll each piece lightly over the back of a fork or a gnocchi board to create ridges, which help the sauce cling. Place finished gnocchi on a lightly floured baking sheet in a single layer.

To make the tomato sauce, warm the olive oil in a wide, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add the diced onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 6 to 8 minutes until softened and translucent. Add the sliced garlic and cook for 1 more minute until fragrant but not browned.

Pour the San Marzano tomatoes into the pan, crushing them by hand as you add them. Stir in the sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, and black pepper. Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer uncovered for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened and deepened in color. Tear in the fresh basil leaves during the last 2 minutes of cooking. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a rolling boil. Working in two batches to avoid overcrowding, drop the gnocchi into the boiling water. They will sink to the bottom. Cook until they float to the surface, then allow them to cook for 30 seconds more — the total cook time will be about 2 to 3 minutes per batch. Remove with a slotted spoon, draining well.