Ossobuco alla Milanese

Born in Milan's trattorias during the 19th century, ossobuco alla Milanese is a slow-braised cross-cut veal shank whose marrow-filled bone gives the dish its name — 'hollow bone' — and its soul. Finished with a bright gremolata of lemon, garlic, and parsley, it is classically served alongside saffron-gilded risotto alla Milanese.

Ingredients

4 cross-cut veal shanks, each about 1.5 inches thick and 300g (10.5 oz)

80g (2/3 cup) all-purpose flour, for dredging

1.5 tsp fine sea salt, divided

1 tsp freshly ground black pepper, divided

60ml (4 tbsp) extra-virgin olive oil

30g (2 tbsp) unsalted butter

1 medium white onion, finely diced

2 medium carrots, finely diced

2 stalks celery, finely diced

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 tbsp tomato paste

250ml (1 cup) dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio

400ml (1.75 cups) beef or veal stock, warm

2 sprigs fresh thyme

1 sprig fresh rosemary

2 dried bay leaves

1 strip lemon zest, about 5cm long

For the gremolata: zest of 1 large unwaxed lemon, finely grated

For the gremolata: 1 small clove garlic, very finely minced

For the gremolata: 3 tbsp fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

Instructions

Tie a piece of kitchen twine around the circumference of each veal shank to help it hold its shape during braising. Pat the shanks completely dry with paper towels, then season all over with 1 tsp of the salt and 3/4 tsp of the black pepper.

Spread the flour in a shallow dish. Dredge each shank in the flour on all sides, pressing gently so it adheres, then shake off any excess.

In a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or braising pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the shanks in a single layer — work in batches if needed — and sear without moving for 4 to 5 minutes per side until deeply golden brown. Transfer the seared shanks to a plate and set aside.

Reduce the heat to medium and add the butter to the same pot. Once melted, add the diced onion, carrot, and celery (the soffritto). Cook, stirring occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes until the vegetables are softened and lightly golden. Add the minced garlic and cook for 1 minute more until fragrant.

Push the soffritto to the sides of the pot and add the tomato paste to the center. Cook the paste, stirring it constantly, for 2 minutes until it darkens slightly and smells sweet.

Pour in the white wine and use a wooden spoon to scrape up all the browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Let the wine bubble and reduce by half, about 3 to 4 minutes.

Preheat your oven to 160°C (325°F). Nestle the seared veal shanks back into the pot in a single layer, standing upright so the marrow does not fall out. Pour the warm stock around the shanks — it should come about halfway up the sides of the meat. Tuck in the thyme, rosemary, bay leaves, and lemon zest strip. Season the braising liquid with the remaining 0.5 tsp salt and 0.25 tsp pepper.

Bring the liquid to a gentle simmer on the stovetop, then cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid and transfer to the preheated oven. Braise for 1 hour and 45 minutes to 2 hours, turning the shanks carefully halfway through, until the meat is completely tender and just beginning to fall from the bone.

While the shanks braise, make the gremolata: in a small bowl, combine the finely grated lemon zest, minced garlic, and chopped parsley. Stir together and set aside at room temperature.

Remove the pot from the oven. Discard the herb sprigs, bay leaves, and lemon zest strip. Carefully remove the kitchen twine from each shank. Taste the braising liquid and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper if needed; if the sauce seems too thin, simmer it uncovered on the stovetop over medium heat for 5 to 10 minutes to reduce slightly.