Som Tam (Green Papaya Salad)

Born in the Isan region of northeastern Thailand, Som Tam is a fiercely aromatic street food staple pounded together in a clay mortar by vendors whose stalls line every market from Khon Kaen to Udon Thani. The dish balances sour lime, funky fish sauce, toasted heat from chilies, and natural sweetness from palm sugar into a harmony that defines the soul of Isan cuisine.

Ingredients

3 cups green (unripe) papaya, peeled and julienned into thin matchsticks (about 1 medium papaya)

2 medium Roma tomatoes, cut into thin wedges

6 long beans (yard beans), cut into 1.5-inch pieces

3 cloves garlic, peeled

4 fresh Thai bird's eye chilies (adjust to heat preference)

2 tablespoons palm sugar, shaved (or light brown sugar)

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice (about 2 limes)

2 tablespoons fish sauce

1 tablespoon dried shrimp

2 tablespoons roasted unsalted peanuts

1 teaspoon tamarind paste dissolved in 1 tablespoon warm water

Instructions

Peel the green papaya, then use a box grater, mandoline, or sharp knife to julienne the flesh into thin, uniform matchsticks approximately 2 inches long. Place in a large bowl of cold water for 5 minutes to keep crisp, then drain and pat thoroughly dry with a clean kitchen towel.

Place the garlic cloves and bird's eye chilies into a large clay or granite mortar. Pound firmly with the pestle for about 60 seconds until the garlic and chilies are bruised and beginning to break down into a coarse, fragrant paste — do not pulverize completely; texture is essential.

Add the long bean pieces to the mortar and pound lightly 4 to 5 times just to bruise and crack them slightly, releasing their juice without turning them mushy.

Add the dried shrimp and palm sugar to the mortar. Pound gently to integrate the sugar into the mixture, about 30 seconds.

Pour in the fish sauce, fresh lime juice, and dissolved tamarind water. Use the pestle and a large spoon to stir and lightly pound the dressing ingredients together until the palm sugar is fully dissolved.

Add the drained julienned papaya to the mortar in two batches. Using the pestle in one hand and a spoon in the other, gently pound and toss the papaya so it absorbs the dressing and becomes slightly softened but retains its crunch — approximately 1 to 2 minutes per batch.

Add the tomato wedges and fold them in gently with a spoon, pressing lightly with the pestle once or twice so they release a small amount of juice without breaking apart completely.

Taste the salad and adjust the balance: add more lime juice for sourness, fish sauce for saltiness, palm sugar for sweetness, or fresh chilies for heat. The finished Som Tam should hit all four notes simultaneously.

Transfer to a serving plate, scraping all the dressing from the mortar. Garnish with the roasted peanuts scattered over the top. Serve immediately alongside sticky rice and grilled meats, or on its own as a bright, refreshing appetizer.