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Easy Cá Kho Tộ (Vietnamese Caramelized Clay Pot Fish)

Cá kho tộ is the kind of recipe that makes rice disappear. It's a braise built on a caramel base — sugar cooked until it darkens and turns faintly bitter, then hit with fish sauce, coconut water, and fish that soaks up the whole thing as it reduces into a thick, lacquered glaze. The fish comes out dark, glossy, and intensely savoury, with a sweetness that's kept in check by the salt in the fish sauce and the slight bitterness in the caramel. Everything about it is designed to be eaten with a lot of plain steamed rice. Catfish is the traditional choice in southern Vietnam, where the dish is most popular — it holds together well in a braise and has enough fat to survive the heat without drying out. Salmon is a widely used substitute and works very well. The clay pot (tộ) gives the dish its name; the porous clay distributes heat slowly and evenly. A heavy cast-iron skillet or small Dutch oven is the best substitute at home. The technique of building the caramel first is non-negotiable. Skip it and the dish is just fish in sweet-salty sauce — flat in comparison. The caramel adds depth, faint bitterness, and the colour that makes the glaze look right. Coconut water helps the braising liquid stay loose while it reduces; it's sold in cans in Asian grocery stores and many supermarkets. Serve in the pot at the table.