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Born in the teahouses of Guangdong province, these two dumplings are the twin pillars of Cantonese yum cha tradition, served since the 19th century alongside pots of oolong and pu-erh tea. Har gow's translucent wheat starch wrapper and Siu mai's open-topped golden cup are the benchmarks by which any dim sum kitchen is judged.
Jump to recipeMAKE THE HAR GOW DOUGH: Combine wheat starch, tapioca starch, and salt in a heatproof bowl. Pour 180ml boiling water directly over the starches all at once and immediately stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until a shaggy dough forms. Add the lard or shortening and knead inside the bowl for 2 minutes until the dough is smooth, pliable, and slightly translucent. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and rest for 15 minutes. The dough should be soft but not sticky.
MAKE THE HAR GOW FILLING: Roughly chop 200g of the shrimp into a coarse paste using a cleaver or knife — you want texture, not a smooth puree. Slice the remaining 100g of shrimp into 1cm pieces. Combine all shrimp with the diced bamboo shoots, sesame oil, soy sauce, sugar, salt, white pepper, and tapioca starch in a bowl. Mix vigorously in one direction for 90 seconds until the mixture becomes slightly sticky and cohesive. Refrigerate for 20 minutes to firm up.
MAKE THE SIU MAI DOUGH: Combine flour and salt in a bowl. Mix the boiling water and cold water together, then pour into the flour while stirring. Mix until a rough dough forms, then turn out and knead on a lightly floured surface for 5 minutes until smooth and elastic. Wrap in plastic and rest for 20 minutes.
MAKE THE SIU MAI FILLING: Place ground pork in a bowl and mix with cold water using your hands, working it in until absorbed — this keeps the filling juicy. Add chopped shrimp, diced shiitake mushrooms, oyster sauce, soy sauce, sesame oil, sugar, white pepper, and cornstarch. Mix everything together vigorously in one direction for 2 minutes until sticky and well combined. Refrigerate while you prepare the wrappers.
SHAPE HAR GOW WRAPPERS: Lightly oil your work surface and a cleaver or flat-bottomed pan. Divide the har gow dough into 4 equal portions, keeping unused portions covered. Roll each portion into a log and cut into 8 pieces (32 pieces total for 4 servings). Place one piece cut-side down on the oiled surface. Press and drag the flat side of the cleaver or pan across the dough piece with firm pressure to form a thin round wrapper approximately 8cm (3 inches) in diameter. The edges should be slightly thinner than the center.
FOLD HAR GOW: Place 1 heaped teaspoon (about 12g) of har gow filling slightly off-center on each wrapper. Fold the wrapper in half over the filling. Starting from the right end, use your index finger and thumb to make 7 small pleats along the front edge of the dough, pressing each pleat firmly against the unpleated back edge to seal. The finished dumpling should be crescent-shaped with pleats on one side and a smooth curved back. Place on a lightly oiled plate and keep covered with a damp towel.
ROLL SIU MAI WRAPPERS: On a lightly floured surface, divide the siu mai dough into 2 portions. Roll each portion out to 2mm thickness. Using a 7cm (2.75 inch) round cookie cutter or glass, cut out circles. Gather scraps, re-roll, and cut more circles until you have 20 wrappers total. Keep covered under a damp towel.
SHAPE SIU MAI: Hold a siu mai wrapper flat in your non-dominant hand. Place 1 tablespoon (about 18g) of siu mai filling in the center. Bring the wrapper up around the filling by forming an O-shape with your thumb and index finger and pressing the dumpling down through it while using a butter knife or spoon to pack the filling in from the top, smoothing it flat. The dumpling should be open-topped, cylindrical, and the wrapper should gather in loose pleats around the sides. Flatten the bottom gently by tapping on the work surface. Top each siu mai with a small amount of flying fish roe or a tiny cube of diced carrot. Place on a lightly oiled tray.
STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a wok or large pot with 5cm (2 inches) of water and bring to a vigorous boil. Line bamboo steamer baskets with small squares of Napa cabbage leaf or parchment paper with holes poked through (to allow steam to circulate). Arrange har gow at least 2cm apart in one basket and siu mai in a second basket — do not crowd them. Stack the baskets, place over the boiling water, cover tightly, and steam the har gow for 8 minutes and the siu mai for 9 minutes over high heat. The har gow wrappers will turn from opaque white to translucent when done.
MAKE DIPPING SAUCE & SERVE: While dumplings steam, stir together soy sauce, chili oil, and rice vinegar in a small dipping bowl. Serve the dumplings immediately directly in the bamboo steamer — they dry out quickly if left uncovered. Eat har gow in one or two bites to preserve the delicate wrapper. Serve with the dipping sauce alongside hot Chinese tea.