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Kitfo is Ethiopia's answer to steak tartare, and it's better. The beef is minced very finely and dressed with two things that don't exist in the French tradition: mitmita, a fiery Ethiopian spice blend built around cardamom-forward bird's eye chiles, and niter kibbeh — clarified butter infused with onion, garlic, ginger, and warm spices. Both are deeply aromatic in a way that raw beef responds to perfectly, the fat in the butter coating each thread of meat while the spice opens up slowly. Kitfo is traditionally served in one of three ways: tire (completely raw), leb leb (briefly warmed in butter until the very outside has just turned but the interior is still raw), or yebesele (fully cooked). Leb leb is the form most people prefer outside Ethiopia and the one this recipe follows — one to two minutes in warm niter kibbeh, just enough to take the chill off and let the fat absorb into the meat, without cooking it through. It's served with injera and usually accompanied by ayib — Ethiopian fresh cheese similar to paneer — which cuts the richness. If you can't find mitmita, a mix of cayenne and cardamom comes close. The dish is simpler to make than it sounds: the technique is straightforward once the niter kibbeh is made (or bought at an Ethiopian grocery), and the quality of the beef does the rest.
Jump to recipeMake the niter kibbeh (can be done up to 2 weeks ahead): melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat. Add the onion, garlic, ginger, turmeric, cumin, cardamom, and thyme. Cook very gently for 20–25 minutes, skimming any foam, until the butter is completely clear and golden and the solids are lightly toasted. Strain through a fine sieve into a jar, discarding the solids. The finished niter kibbeh keeps refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
Trim the beef of any sinew or fat. Slice into thin strips, then chop with a heavy knife until the texture is very fine — almost a smooth paste. Do not use a food processor; it tears the fibers and makes the texture gummy. Keep refrigerated until needed.
Warm 4 tablespoons of niter kibbeh in a wide frying pan over low heat. Add the mitmita (or cayenne-cardamom blend), cumin, and salt. Stir together.
Add the minced beef to the warm spiced butter. Stir and fold continuously for 1–2 minutes — just long enough for the butter to coat the meat and the very outside of each strand to turn from bright red to a faint pink. The interior should stay raw. Do not let it brown. Remove from heat immediately.
Transfer to a warm plate. Serve immediately with injera torn into pieces for scooping, crumbled ayib on the side, and sautéed collard greens. Eat by wrapping a spoonful of kitfo in injera with a little ayib alongside each bite.